Isoler Combles Perdus Soi Meme..
The best way to Prepare and Insulate Your Own Attic. How you can air seal and insulate your atticso your home fails to lose all the heat it must have to help you stay warm this winter. Getting your attic up-to-speed with insulation is one of the most cost effect measures to assist your house become more energy efficient.
Coming to the attic usually means one of three things.
1. Your 10 years old and playing hide-and-seek.
2. Your 32 yrs old and you will have yet another valuable heirloom to hold away for ever.
3. Your 54 years old and you’ve noticed a wet spot on the ceiling and you’re afraid the roofing is leaking.
Each one of these are top reasons to go into the attic, but for now, let’s enter in the attic to look at the insulation and find out if adding more insulation would be a good – house warming – lower the power bill – thing to do.
Building codes effecting insulation levels did not really start to take affect till the early 1980’s. If your home was built prior to 1984, there is a very good chance that the attic has minimal attic insulation. Builders inside the 1940’s did not insulate most of anything, builders inside the 1960’s filled the space between the roof rafters with about 4 inches of insulation. Builders inside the 1990’s installed 8 inches ( R-25 to R-30 ) of loose-fill Isoler Des Combles Perdus and by the season 2000, insulation levels had reached 12 inches ( R-38 ). Today, depending on the homes location, attics are insulated with 16 inches of blown-in fiberglass ( R-49 ), cellulose, or shredded blue jeans.
Yes, shredded blue jeans, I’m serious, the ripped up blue jeans were being installed in a wall as insulation. Attic insulation is energy-efficient should you live in a cold climate and you’re continuing to keep the warm in as well as the cold out, or if perhaps you live in a warm climate and you’re continuing to keep the cold in and also the warm out.
Dark colored, metal fiber appearing insulation is most likely rock wool. A well known attic insulation inside the 50’s and 60’s. Fairly effective rather than a health hazard. However, insulation granules which can be roughly ¼ inch square that feel like Styrofoam and contrast from mirror shiny to dark in color might be vermiculite asbestos. This really is bad stuff as a result of asbestos content. My advise to attics with vermiculite is to have it professionally removed. Tend not to handle or disturb this insulation without the direction of any professional contractor.
Tip – Don’t mess with knob and tube wiring and don’t handle vermiculite. Call a pro. Should your home was built prior to 1940, you need to be mindful of knob and tube wiring. This really is clothed bound wiring that is certainly mounted on ceramic knobs because it runs over wood framing structures or runs through ceramic tubes once the wire runs through holes within the framing or building material. This type of wiring will have to be replaced by new electrical wiring by an electrical contractor before insulating. Should you insulate directly over knob and tube wiring, the wire can heat up and make a fire danger.
One more thing, watch in which you step while in the attic, only step on the truss or rafter framing lumber. If you step between the framing members you will probably stick your leg through the ceiling and have one ugly hole to patch and one heck of any mess to wash up before the tiny women gets home. Tip – to provide a place to place your feet when you work on sealing the attic floor, take some plywood to the attic that can reach over several rafters.
Tools and materials needed:
1. Basic face mask and light coveralls. Cloth or leather gloves and eye protection.
2. Drop light which means you can see what you’re doing and where you’re going. Tip – miner style head lights work good here.
3. If you have a flue or chimney running up using your attic, or recessed lights or ceiling fans, you may need a small roll of light weight metal flashing, 18 to 24 inches wide. One kind of tin shears.
4. Can of insulating expanding spray foam.
5. Tube of inexpensive general purpose caulk along with a caulk gun. In case you have gas appliances, also pick up a tube of high temperature caulk.
6. Cardboard vent chutesfor placing between the roof trusses on the same location as each eve vent or bird block. Count the number of you will want by counting the number of eve or soffit vents from outside the home. The best tool to set up the chutes is with a squeeze or tacker stapler.
7. Extra cardboard for barriers to separate areas where you do not want insulation.
8. 1/4 inch, #6 sheetmetal screws and a cordless drill. Tip – get self starting and threading screws.
How to prepare the attic before installing insulation:
1. Remove the stuff you have saved in the attic that have been placed on the heated area of your property where you are going to insulate. Items stored on the garage can stay. Boards that were positioned in the attic to hold items on should also be removed. Tip – Possess a garage sale.
2. Consider the vent chutes and the tacker stapler and install a chute each and every location where there is an eve vent. Fit the chute so insulation can not block the vent as well as a flow of air can move from the outside, through the eve vent, up from the chute and out in to the attic. Attic ventilation is very important for the health of your attic.
3. With pieces cut from your roll of metal flashing and also the high temperature caulk, seal around the flue pipe where pipe comes through the ceiling. Cut a half circular pattern from the edge of the metal and install around the pipe like a collar, screw in position making use of the sheet metal screws by screwing through tabs bent up on the sides of the metal and screwing in to the framing members of the truss. Place half collar on a single side in the pipe along with a half collar on the other. Caulk the space in between the flashing as well as the pipe using the high temperature caulk. Tip – when you use the thin metal, wear gloves in order to avoid getting cut from the metal.
4. Now go ahead and take metal flashing and the tin shears and form a cylinder across the flue pipes and masonry chimneys and everything else that carries hot combustion gases. There must be a two inch air space involving the hot flue and also the new sheet metal insulation barrier. Use the sheet metal screws to hold in position. These cylinders should look like extra tall turtle neck sweaters on a metal neck.
5. In case you have recessed lighting or canned lights ( exact same thing), locate them in your attic. Older canned lights that you simply cannot cover with insulation is definitely not IC rated. IC means Insulated Ceiling. The IC rating ought to be clearly indicated on the label attached to the back in the light. Tend not to confuse a UL rating ( Underwriters Laboratory ) with all the IC rating. They are not the same. A UL rating means the canned light features a cutoff switch installed that will turn the light off if it gets too hot. An IC rating means it is safe to cover the canned light with insulation. Air space between the IC rated light and insulation is not really needed. Tip – Now might be a good time to upgrade the recessed lights to sealed cans and IC rated.
When the canned light is IC rated, seal the light where it comes from the ceiling with general purpose caulk – your ready to install insulation over the light.
In the event the canned light is not really IC rated, seal the light where it comes from the ceiling as well as any holes inside the light body rich in temperature caulk. Form a cylinder with the metal flashing and put it round the light body like you would probably a flue pipe leaving a two inch air space. Hold it in position using the sheet metal screws. This will look like a gardener that puts a wide open end bucket over his young tomato plants therefore they are protected against the cold. The plant is the can light and also the bucket is definitely the sheet metal.
6. Locate any exhaust fans, there could be none, several. The fans must have a ridged or flexable round duct running from the fan with an exhaust point that puts the exhausted air outside and never within the attic. Use the all purpose caulk or even the foam spray to seal the fan body on the ceiling. Use the caulk to seal the holes in the fan body. Be certain the duct is exhausting for an eve vent or a roof peak vent. Use the metal flashing and the foam spray to seal the exhaust duct to the eve or roof vent. Secure the duct with wire or plastic ties to make sure that the duct will not fall down over time. An exhaust fan has a one of many ways flapper valve inside the exhaust fan body just before it attaches for the duct. Because of the chance, inspect the flapper valve and ensure lint, dust, hair, moisture and gunk has not yet left the valve stuck open or glued shut. The flapper valve is really a back flow restrictor, keeping cold or warm air from coming back down the duct to your house. Tip- Now would be a good time for you to replaced older noisy exhaust fans. I suggest an exhaust fan rated at 100 cfm (cubic feet per minute ) or more and on the quiet side.
7. Now take the can of spray foam and apply foam to each hole where an electrical wire, T.V. wire, or telephone wire enters or leaves the attic. Carry out the same for your plumbing pipes. There must be vent pipes running up from the attic floor and out the roof. Foam where the pipe comes through the attic floor. Do not foam where the pipe goes through the roof.
8. Some homes, both older homes and newer, may have open framing spaces running through the attic floor down to the floor below. These are generally spaces that result from unneeded space after bathtubs or closets. They maybe caused by irregular framing such as a triangle formed in which a closet meets a hallway that meets a bedroom door. These open chases kkwzjo to be sealed with more than just insulation. Take a piece of cardboard, cut it to suit within the opening, lay a bead of purpose caulk across the lip of the opening, lay the cardboard on top the the caulk and screw down with the sheet metal screws. Now you simply insulate within the cardboard.